Across China: Japanese restaurateur pursues entrepreneurial dream in Hainan Free Trade Port

Japanese restaurateur Kato Tetsuya works at his bistro in Haikou, capital of south China's Hainan Province, Oct. 24, 2025. (Xinhua/Guo Cheng)

HAIKOU, Nov. 6 (Xinhua) -- As dusk settled over Haikou, capital of south China's Hainan Province, Japanese restaurateur Kato Tetsuya moved between tables in his softly lit bistro, chatting with diners in his halting Chinese beside his wife.

The 62-year-old from Tokyo, Japan, was working in the hair and fashion industry when a friend invited him to Beijing in 2008, and little did he know that this move would mark the beginning of a nearly two-decade chapter of his life in China.

"I was caught by my Chinese wife," Kato said with a smile, explaining why he stayed, recalling how just a year after arriving in Beijing, he met Niu Qian. From falling in love and getting married to starting a business, his life in China has been both busy and fulfilling.

Although Kato worked in hairdressing, many of his Japanese friends knew he was a skilled cook of homemade Japanese dishes, and acting on their suggestion, he ventured into the catering industry. In 2016, he opened his first Japanese bistro in Beijing, which has since become a beloved destination for locals seeking authentic Japanese cuisine.

According to him, the cultural differences between China and Japan have actually helped him integrate into life here. "Most Japanese people tend to keep their thoughts to themselves, but Chinese people are more straightforward and frank, which fits perfectly with my personality. So living in China makes me feel at ease," Kato said.

Last winter, Kato, along with his family and friends, was invited by the Hainan Free Trade Port Japanese Enterprise Cooperation Center to visit the island. The favorable policies of the free trade port revealed new possibilities. "I heard that Hainan is developing rapidly, and I believe this place is full of opportunities," he said, adding that the warm and outgoing local people, along with the pleasant climate, further inspired his decision to start a business there.

In May, Kato and his wife moved from Beijing to Haikou, kicking off a new chapter in his entrepreneurial journey in China. Together with two Japanese friends, they opened a bistro named "Jijiz Uncles" in August.

"In Japanese, 'Jijiz' means 'uncles,' and it represents the three of us Japanese uncles," said Kato. The entire process, from selecting the location and designing and decorating the restaurant to sourcing ingredients, took just two months -- far quicker than Kato had expected -- and would not have been possible without the support of the Japanese Enterprise Cooperation Center and the government.

Since its opening, the restaurant has welcomed many customers, including locals who speak Japanese or have traveled to Japan, as well as friends visiting from Beijing and Shanghai. "I believe we will attract even more customers in the future," he said.

With the Hainan Free Trade Port set to launch its island-wide special customs operations by the end of 2025, Kato is already making long-term plans. He aspires to open more branches and turn "Jijiz" into a showcase for Japanese ingredients and culinary techniques.

"Hainan has many unique local ingredients and flavors. These can be combined with Japanese cuisine to create new tastes," Kato said. He said he plans to continue researching and developing new fusion dishes, and hopes that more Chinese people will not only taste Japanese cuisine but also experience the distinctive atmosphere and culture of a Japanese bistro.

"After the Hainan Free Trade Port launches its island-wide special customs operations, it will attract more diverse international influences. However, cultural integration takes time," Kato said, adding that he is willing to act as a promoter and contribute to this cultural exchange and growth. ■

Japanese restaurateur Kato Tetsuya (R) and his wife chat with diners at his bistro in Haikou, capital of south China's Hainan Province, Oct. 24, 2025. (Xinhua/Guo Cheng)